Teampaill – Church of Saint James

Saint James: The little church of Saint James or Teampaill as it more commonly known is located on Michael Collins Road in New Mervue. It is dedicated to Saint James of Santiago de Compostella in Galicia, Spain. According to Catholic tradition, James was an Apostle of Christ who spread Christianity in Spain. In the year AD 44, he was beheaded in Jerusalem, and his remains were later transferred to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Saint James is the Patron Saint of Spain. The tradition at Compostela followed the discovery of the relics of the saint in the time of King Alfonso II (791–842). This tradition was the basis for the pilgrimage route that began during the ninth century. It eventually became the most famous pilgrimage site in the Christian world.

The church and cemetery of Saint James at Mervue. Author’s Collection. Inset: The image and cross of Saint James.
Santiago de Compostela Cathedral

Galway Connection: During the late Medieval Period, there was a powerful trade connection between Galway and Spain. It was inevitable that Galway people would also honour Saint James. The idea of people travelling on pilgrimage from Galway is not a new phenomenon. During the fifteenth century, the Mayor of Galway, James Lynch Fitz Stephen, requested special permission from the Town Council to go on pilgrimage to the grave of the Saint while he was in office. Many others followed his example, and thus a local tradition evolved.

Church of Saint James: Over the centuries, there were at least five churches within Galway city environs devoted to Saint James. Teampaill, as it is known at Mervue is one of them. While it dates from late medieval times (one source stated that it was the oldest church in Galway), the first surviving written record of the church is from Ordnance Survey Letters for County Galway in 1838. The church was in a ruined state by this period, but the site was still being used as a burial ground. There are a number of possibilities as to its origins and function. The church contains a number of building phases dating from the twelfth to the nineteenth century. The excellent restoration work which was completed some years ago (1990s) has also added some late twentieth century features. A number of important and interesting stones were discovered during the restoration work and some were incorporated in the church. A small but interesting ‘single-light’ stone window was one of the items found, and it now forms part of the church structure. It was suggested that this may have been removed from the Roscam Monastic site at some earlier date. During the restoration world a large amount of Scallop Shell uncovered indicating a connection with Saint James.

Members of the Saint James Restoration Committee 1996; from the left: Patsy Nolan, Martin Crowley, Pat Fitzgerald, John Joe Melody, Arthur Costello, Mary Kilchrist, Fr Joseph Keogh, Bridie O’Flaherty, Claire Gilmore, Michael Leahy, Peig Davis, Jim Higgins, Seán Keane

The Scallop Shell: The Scallop Shell (right) is the emblem of Saint James. While the Scallop Shell is deemed to be purely symbolic today, it did have practical uses in previous centuries. Because of its shape, the shell was used as a scoop for food and water along the way to Santiago. Food kitchens along the route would also use a Scallop Shell as a measure of a portion. There are three associated myths or legends regarding the Scallop Shell:

(1): The ship containing the body of Saint James was lost and destroyed in a severe storm. After a long period of time, his body was washed ashore covered in scallop shells, but his remains were completely undamaged.

(2): As the ship was passing beneath a cliff, a knight fell from the top. A moment of divine intervention occurred, and the knight emerged from the sea, unharmed and covered in scallop shells.

(3): A wedding was taking place on the shore, with the bride on horseback. As the ship passed the shoreline, the horse became frightened and bolted into the ocean with the bride strapped into the saddle. The bride and horse were saved and emerged from the sea covered in scallop shells.

The pilgrimage: The pilgrimage began at the house of the pilgrim and didn’t stop until they reached Santiago. The recognition for completing the pilgrimage was a badge in the form of a scallop shell. By the thirteenth century, vendors and shop owners took advantage of this tradition and begin selling scallop shells in Santiago. There is evidence of early pilgrimages to Santiago from all over Europe. Many people who had completed the pilgrimages would be buried with scallop shells, or have it engraved on their coffin or tomb.

Teampaill Burials: The cemetery of Saint James in Mervue is officially closed for burials since the 1950s. It was the main burial place for people from Mervue, Ballybaan, Ballyloughaun, Merlin Park, Doughiska and even as far away as Bohermore and College Road. The burials represent a good cross-section of the community, including both rich and poor alike. Wealthy landowners, such as the Wilson Lynch family from Renmore House and the Joyce family of Mervue House, have family interred in the cemetery. Victims of the Great Famine 1845-50 from the area were also buried there, mostly without a grave marker. In recent years, a Great Famine Memorial was erected in the cemetery to commemorate these unfortunate people. There are a number of well-known people buried there including Tom ‘The Moore’ Molineaux, Seán Mulvoy a Swiss Guard.

Tom ‘The Moore’ Molineaux: On 4 August 1818, the African-American champion boxer, Tom ‘The Moor’ Molineaux, died of influenza while visiting Galway. He was buried in St. James’ Cemetery, but the exact location of the grave is unknown. Tom was born in 1784 on a slave plantation in Virginia, U.S.A. He came from a family of fighters and became involved in the sport at a young age. Tom arrived in England about 1809. He eventually became the heavyweight champion of the day. Sometime between 1816 and 1817, Tom arrived in Dublin, where he joined a group of boxers who were travelling from town to town giving exhibition bouts. It was while engaged in this activity that he eventually arrived in Galway. There is a plaque erected to him at Saint Patrick’s School. This was the site of the Shambles where Tom Molineaux died. A commemorative stone was unveiled to him by Katie Taylor in 2019.

Seán Mulvoy: The funeral of Seán Mulvoy is believed to be the largest to take place in St James’ Cemetery. On the night of 8 September 1920, Seán Mulvoy a member of the IRA, was shot dead while trying to disarm Constable Edward Crumm, of the Royal Irish Constabulary. Crumm was shot dead and the Black and Tans immediately set out for revenge. In the early hours of the morning, the Black and Tans took Seamus Quirke, a member of a local brigade of IRA, from his lodgings near Galway docks. They dragged him to the corner of the docks where they shot him a number of times; he died shortly afterwards. On 10 September 1920 High Mass was celebrated in the Pro-Cathedral, Galway for both IRA men.  Their remains were then removed for burial. Dr Thomas O’Dea, Bishop of Galway led 10,000 people and over forty priests in the funeral procession to St. James’ Cemetery, where Seán Mulvoy was interred. The funeral of Seamus Quirke continued on to his native Cork.

The Swiss Guards: According to at least one source, there is also a Swiss Guard buried in the cemetery. On 21 January 1506, the Swiss Guard marched into Rome to a fanfare of jubilation and excitement to become the personal guard of the Pope Julius II. The reason that the Swiss Guards were chosen for this task was because by that period, Switzerland had earned a reputation for having the most reliable mercenaries in Europe. These soldiers were virtually unbeatable and reliable. The Pope admired the Swiss soldiers and requested a contingent of 200 to serve as his personal bodyguards and defend his palaces. They are the smallest army in the world and have an incredible reputation for courage. Their first test came during the Sacking of Rome on 6 May 1527. Some 147 Swiss Guards were killed defending Pope Clement VII, who managed to escape to the fortress of Castel. New recruits to the Swiss Guards are sworn into the service of the Pope on May 6th annually since that time.

The Swiss Guards

Restoration: It is thanks to the people of the area, Galway City Council and the hard-working St James’ Committee that the restoration work on the church and cemetery took place. A book recording the history of the church and cemetery was also part of the restoration project. It was a fantastic effort by the committee and maintenance work continues today led by Martin Crowley. Local councillor and former mayor, Declan McDonnell, also takes an active role in the up-keep of the site. These people should be proud of their achievement and are an example to other areas of historical importance around the country. Over the years, many more headstones were re-erected and repaired. The church was cleared of all debris and restored in a very tasteful manner. The walls surrounding the site were also rebuilt and footpaths set in place. The latest project is to have the names of all who are buried there recorded on stone. The church and cemetery is visited by many people today, some have family buried there; others are simply interested in its history and school children in the company of their teachers.

St James Cemetery, Mervue. Author’s Collection